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Drive Shafts

Balancing and run-out check on drive shafts...?

Ok my question...
My dad says:
balancing and run-out checks on drive shafts are made the same way on independent suspension drive axles.
My Brother says:
These checks are not necessary on drive axles?

Are they both right wrong or one of them right?

both are right ,
It can depend upon the model of car like vettes have a short "drive shaft" going to the wheel hub from the diff carrier with u-joints these hollow shafts can get bent , twisted or egged , sometimes a weight may come off .
On a front wheel drive car such as a Citation , they are solid and other then getting bent they are pretty true from the factory but to check for a bent shaft you gotta check the the same way with a dial indecator

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Drive Shaft: "You All Everybody"



mk3 golf I need to remove the drive shafts. Can I pull them directly out of the gearbox?

or will this make the diff collapse if so do you know the size of the multispline needed to remove the inner tripod joint.
many thanks PJ

getting around your lingo.(British my guess). I got a rabbit(predating Jetta or Golf). Still some things remain the same.
Using mine(cause I have done it a few times).
First car on ground on all 4 wheels. Take off front hub caps. Take off centre nut off both front wheels. They are on tight, so you may need a 4 ft bar to do it. Also take out the thick washer behind the nut.
OK, now jack up the car and put blocks under it(not under the wheels cause we need steering movement. More like under the motor mounts and somewhat the oil pan or the body/frame. Make it safe.
Now you need a 12 point "male end" wrench or 12 point male socket 8mm (I do believe). Tell the autoparts supply store you want to take off the CV(constant velocity) joints on a Golf. They will look up the size and give you the correct wrench. This will normally fit in a 6 sided socket. Use a 6 sided socket only.
Now you got to remove the 6 bolts that hold the CV to the transaxle(gearbox)....so clean out all the dirt and grease that you find in the bolt hole before sticking in the wrench and then stick the wrench in all the way(use a hammer on the end of the wrench to be sure it is in all the way. These are on very tight as well and you may have to hit the socket wrench handle to crack it free. You wont break the bolt. They are that hard. However, you can wear off the splines IF you don't have the 12 point socket in all the way. Once you wreck the splines, it will be very difficult to remove the bolt. Thats why I said clean the holes REALLY GOOD.!
You may need someone sitting in the car standing on the brake pedal for the whole axle will turn rather than the bolt.

I will assume you got them loose. Just before you take oout the last bolt that holds in the one CV hold the axle up, for as soon as you remove the last CV bolt, the CV and axle will drop down some. Don't want that to fall in your face, or worse, into the dirt.

Now removing the axle on the passenger side is different than on the drivers side.
I've done 5 passengers and only 1 drivers. And the passenger takes more work(of course). On the drivers side the axle and CV will just drop down to the ground and then you can pull the other end out of the wheel.
The passenger side is done like this...after the last bolt is taken out, push the CV axle straight up and then feed it over the gearbox, over the linkages while you are pulling at the other end to take it out of the wheel. once it is free of the wheel, lower the axle at the wheel end and then you can feed the axle back and out from under the car.
Sure you could have loosened the suspension so the strut was loose, but why?
Besides, I was laying under the car at the time and wiggling it out worked just as well. And if you got the strength, you can put in a freshly greased axle without any of the grease hitting any of the shift linkage or any dirt. So they must have figured on doing it this way.
Nothing will happen to the diff.. You can push the car outside if you want, no worries.

"Inner tripod joint". What do you mean by that one?

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