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Engine Motor Package

Long block vs short block engines?

I have a 68 mustang with a 302 that needs a new motor. I pretty much understand the difference between a long block and short block as far as how much of a complete package I am buying... My question is exactly what extra parts are included besides the heads and cam on a long block that isnt on a short block?
Thanks for your answers. The reason I ask is I want to eventually put some new heads and a high performance cam in, I dont have a ton of money right now and wouldnt be doing it if I didnt need a new engine. My question is, if I get a short block, get some aftermarket aluminum heads and a nice cam, iwll it be insanely more expensive than just getting the stock long block... I can get a long block for 1600. not sure about a short block

A long block will include block, pistons, crank, cam, heads, and valvetrain, possibly an oil pan. The short block will just be the block,crank, and pistons.

UPDATE: If you are doing the teardown yourself, you may be better off just having the lower end of your engine rebuilt with new pistons, rings, a bore, and a crank turn. It will be cheaper than a short block, then you can buy the aftermarket heads and etc. to put on it. It would be a waste of money to buy a factory long block complete with heads only to change them out with another set. I would just purchase the short block if you are going to add aftermarket heads and intake.

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Mercury Marine Outboard Engine Video History - Part 6



What can i do to make my 327 faster?

I have a 1967 327ci with a powerglide attached to it in my 1967 malibu. it has 66,666 original miles. I want to make it much faster it runs a 17.86 on the 1/4 mile. i was wondering if i could run this package http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2099/ with my stock engine? i have a edelbrock performer carb 600cfm on my motor currently. and if i cant run that package what could i do to make my motor accept that upgrade. my dream is to make my car faster than 15.00 in the 1/4 mile. Thank you
i plan on adding a high torque converter to my powerglide. as much as i would love to smoke the tires with a th400 (i cant with a 2 speed powerglide) the durability of my powerglide is the biggest bonus for me. this is my daily driver so i need a reliable tranny. i am still in high school and can only really afford this rebuild.
but a 327 is rare and everythings original on my car and still works including my factory air conditioning.

Ditch the powerglide. A stock glide aint as strong as the th-350 mch less the th-400.

You'll notice a BIG gain in accel from the trans swap. Your glide has a 1.76 1st gear ratio. A th-350 has a 2.52 1st gear and 1.52 second gear. Its almost like your starting off in second gear now.

Do a web search or meaage board search for reults of a rear gear swap from a 2.73 or 3.08 to a 3.73 and see what the people say..

You'll get that same kinda gain from swapping from the glide to a th-350 trans

Don't worry about the strenght man. I have a th-400 behind a 600 HP 355 and my dad has a th-350 behind a twin turbo changed 700 HP 327 in an 82 firebird

Now onto your question.. God no, dont get that kit. It is very un matched to your needs. Its a roller cam that does not come with the retro fit $400 lifters thatys needed, the cam is way too big for your stock compression (its a 234/238*@.050") Thats gonna need 10:1 compression to work right.

Buy parts not in a kit. Get a set of brodix IK180cc, 64cc chamber heads for $1056, and any brand hyd. flat tappet cam with .050" duration around 218 intake and 226 or 228 exhaust with a 112 LSA (good cheap priced cam kits are elgin, howards, from competition products, or summit brand from summit racing)

Edelbrock performer RPM intake

$30 gasket kit from competition products

Use your carb.

If you still have points ign. upgrade to a summit brand $90 HEI dizzy, and MSD 8.5mm wires

K&N 14x3" air filter

long tube, 1-5/8" tubes, 3" coll. headers with dual 2.25" pipes and good flowing mufflers

All the above parts will gain you about 100-125 HP

Back that up with a th-350 trans with a 2800 stall 11" torque converter and 3.42 or 3.73 and you'll have a street beast.

Set your timing to 16* before TDC at idle (you could do that now even and notice alot of diff)

That above combo with the engine parts and the th-350 swap will have you in the high 13's 1/4 mile if you can get any traction

With the glide, the glide will kill off close to 2 seconds on your combo

The only time we run power glides is on very high HP cars that are tire limited and need to reduce the launch accel to keep it from spinning off the line. Like 800 and 1000 HP drag cars that weighs no more than 3200 lbs with driver and running 4.30 or more rear gear. Heck all of my customers that runs a glide is running 4.56 or 5.XX rear gears

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